London Fashion Week Delivers Retro Tailoring And Ethereal Lace
A woman wearing a pinstripe blazer and delicate lace collar in a three-quarter profile view.

| Fashion & Style

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⏱ 2 min read

💡 TLDR

London is officially in its glitziest era, serving everything from 80s power suits and "Saltburn" vibes to ethereal lace. Whether you’re feeling retro tailoring or sheer, romantic textures, the S/S '27 runways are delivering pure high-octane drama.

London has officially entered its glitziest era for the start of S/S ’27. While the city has always been the ultimate incubator for fresh talent, this year feels especially high-octane with a mix of nostalgic revivals and deeply cultural storytelling hitting the runways. From the thumping bass of Mark Fast’s knitwear to the military precision of Mithridate, the vibe is clearly shifting toward pieces that feel both intentional and incredibly lived-in.

Nostalgia Meets Modern Edge

The retro energy is impossible to miss, specifically with Daniel Fletcher’s work for Mithridate. He leaned heavily into an 80s “Suit it Up” aesthetic, blending pinstripe shorts and oversized shirts with unexpected elements like corsetry used as cummerbunds. Think Blitz kids meets modern power dressing—complete with quiffed hair and pussybow blouses set against a Life on Mars soundtrack. It was all about the balance of work and play. Similarly, Maximilian Raynor brought a maximalist English countryside mood to the runway, featuring vibrant trench coats and oversized Wellington boots that felt very Saltburn but updated for right now.

💫 It was all about the balance of work and play.

Cultural Craft And New Silhouettes

If you need a palate cleanser from the heavy tailoring, Sarah Regensburg’s “The Art Of Belonging” provided pure decadence. The show celebrated her Iranian-German heritage through sweeping halterneck dresses and intricate weaves that felt totally transformative. We are also seeing a major moment for sheer textures; whether it was the full-bodied lace bodysuits at Regensburg or the second-skin crochet stockings seen at Mark Fast, transparency is definitely having a moment. Even the preppy vibes at Keburia stayed interesting by incorporating art-scene motifs, like horse-and-mallard tapestry shift dresses.

eBay’s Endless Runway also brought the hype, with contributors like Daisy Edgar-Jones and Harry Lambert styling pre-loved pieces to the theme ‘Forever.’ The best part? It was total retail therapy in real time—every look hit the catwalk and was immediately available to buy via eBay Live. Between that energy and the ethereal, seafoam-toned draping of Joyce Boa’s collection, London is proving it can handle both high-concept art and wearable romance.

Are you feeling the 80s power dressing revival, or are you more into the ethereal, romantic silhouettes?

❓ People Also Ask

What are the main fashion trends seen at London Fashion Week S/S '27?

The primary trends for the Spring/Summer 2027 season include a mix of retro tailoring and ethereal, sheer textures. Designers are leaning into nostalgic revivals like 80s power dressing and maximalist English countryside aesthetics alongside more romantic, translucent elements. Notable examples include full-bodied lace bodysuits and second-skin crochet stockings. This combination of high-octane nostalgia and delicate craftsmanship shows a shift toward pieces that feel both intentional and deeply lived-in for the modern era.

How did Daniel Fletcher incorporate 80s nostalgia into his Mithridate collection?

Daniel Fletcher utilized an 80s Suit it Up aesthetic to blend historical references with modern power dressing. He combined pinstripe shorts and oversized shirts with unique elements like corsetry used as cummerbunds to create a balanced look. The presentation captured a Blitz kids energy by featuring quiffed hair and pussybow blouses set to a Life on Mars soundtrack. This approach effectively merged the concept of work and play through structured tailoring and unexpected, playful styling choices.

What role did cultural heritage play in the recent London runway shows?

Cultural storytelling played a significant role through designers using their personal backgrounds to inspire intricate garment construction. Sarah Regensburg celebrated her Iranian-German heritage in her Art Of Belonging collection by utilizing sweeping halterneck dresses and complex weaves. These designs offered a sense of decadence and transformation on the runway. By incorporating these specific cultural motifs and craftsmanship techniques, designers are moving beyond simple aesthetics to provide deeper, more meaningful narratives through their clothing.

How can shoppers purchase items featured in the eBay's Endless Runway show?

Shoppers can purchase the pre-loved pieces featured in the eBay's Endless Runway show immediately via eBay Live. The collection, themed Forever, featured contributors like Daisy Edgar-Jones and Harry Lambert who styled various vintage items for the catwalk. This format allows for real-time retail therapy by connecting high-fashion runway moments directly to consumer availability. It bridges the gap between high-concept fashion presentations and the practical ability to buy sustainable, pre-owned clothing instantly.


💬 What do you think? Let us know in the comments! 👇


📰 Source: Who What Wear

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