✨ Let’s get into it ✨
⏱ 2 min read
💡 TLDR
Forget the heavyweights—the newcomers just hijacked London Fashion Week with everything from "clothes to wear to Tesco" to full-on apocalyptic leather. Whether it’s Giu Rosa’s adolescent anarchy or Liza Keane’s brutalist vibes, these rising stars are officially stealing the spotlight.
London Fashion Week might be trying to bring back the heavyweights, but the real energy is coming from the newcomers. While the big names are playing it safe, a wave of debutants and rising talents just turned the city into a total incubator for disruption. From apocalyptic leather to “clothes to wear to Tesco,” these designers aren’t just showing collections; they’re making statements that we won’t be able to stop thinking about all season.
New Icons on the Radar
Agro Studio officially leveled up this season with their ‘Glass Body’ collection, trading last year’s moody vibes for high-concept couture techniques. They played with light refractions and transparency, using purple as a visual throughline—not just because it’s an it-color, but because of how our brains process the spectrum. The vibe backstage was described by the Agro boys as “soft club,” which perfectly set the stage when Kylie Minogue’s Slow blasted through the hall during the finale. Then there’s Traicelene Pratt, the brain behind Goyagoma via Fashion East, who is giving us the ultimate luxuriously cool outerwear. Whether it’s a voluminous sheepskin coat or those floor-length gowns with beaded belts, her elevated everyday pieces are pure perfection.
💫 The looks dismantle expectation and capture that adolescent attraction to anarchy that we often lose along the way.
If you want something a bit more rebellious, Giu Rosa is basically the Miu Miu sister you didn’t know you needed. Her ‘Hi, Society’ mantra takes a cheeky look at privileged lifestyles, using acidic spring brights and flirty midriff-baring silhouettes to embrace a sense of adolescent anarchy. The looks dismantle expectation and capture that adolescent attraction to anarchy that we often lose along the way. On the complete opposite end of the spectrum, Liza Keane’s debut felt like a “Brutalist Baptism.” It was total apocalypse chic, featuring men in grey paint climbing cement blocks and models emerging drenched from water structures wearing moulded black leather and matte motorbike helmets.
Real Wearability Meets High Art
It wasn’t all just avant-garde madness, though, because some designers are actually thinking about our real lives. Sol visited her studio before presenting Hansdottir, where she explained her mission was to create “clothes to wear to Tesco.” She even did a live demo of models dressing themselves as they walked, showing off open-backed skirts over capris for an effortless, creative look. Finally, Francesca Lake delivered a stunning presentation titled ‘Wake The Town.’ As someone who is Nevisian, I found her exploration of Jamaican culture through Mas references—like the Bull used in folklore—to be incredibly nuanced. By fusing Patois poetry with Manolo shoes, she created a collection that celebrated Black pride and audacity with total sophistication.
Which of these vibes are you adding to your mood board first?
❓ People Also Ask
What were the key themes of the Agro Studio SS/27 collection?
The Agro Studio SS/27 collection focused on high-concept couture techniques through their Glass Body series. The designers utilized light refractions and transparency to create a unique visual experience, using purple as a primary color to influence how viewers process the spectrum. The presentation embraced a soft club aesthetic, which was emphasized by the use of Kylie Minogue’s Slow during the final walk to set the atmospheric tone for the season.
How did Liza Keane incorporate Brutalist elements into her debut collection?
Liza Keane utilized a Brutalist Baptism theme to create a sense of apocalypse chic for her debut runway show. The presentation featured dramatic staging where models emerged from water structures while wearing molded black leather and matte motorbike helmets. To further the industrial atmosphere, the show included men in grey paint climbing cement blocks, creating a raw and edgy aesthetic that defined the collection's rebellious and structural identity.
What inspired the design philosophy behind the Hansdottir brand?
The Hansdottir brand is driven by a mission to create practical, wearable clothing described as clothes to wear to Tesco. Designer Sol focuses on effortless and creative pieces that integrate seamlessly into real-life settings rather than just high-fashion environments. During her presentation, she demonstrated this concept of functional style by having models dress themselves as they walked, showcasing versatile items like open-backed skirts paired over capris.
How does Francesca Lake celebrate Jamaican culture in her fashion work?
Francesca Lake celebrates Jamaican culture by incorporating Mas references and Patois poetry into her sophisticated collections. Her Wake The Town presentation specifically explored folklore elements, such as the Bull, to create a nuanced connection to her heritage. By fusing these traditional cultural markers with high-fashion items like Manolo shoes, she successfully created a collection that highlights Black pride and audacity through a lens of modern sophistication.
💬 What do you think? Let us know in the comments! 👇
📰 Source: Who What Wear