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⏱ 2 min read
💡 TLDR
Forget the viral Zendaya dress—Naranjo is officially rebranding and pivoting toward long-term growth. He's ditching one-hit wonders for "strong classics," abstract underwater vibes, and a massive expansion into accessories like eyewear and shoes.
Ernesto Naranjo is officially entering his brand-building era, and he isn’t letting one viral moment define him. While dressing Zendaya was a massive win, the designer is making it clear that he’s looking far beyond that single red dress. His latest collection, Ondine, moves away from literal interpretations of marine life to create an abstract underwater world using silver mesh, netting, and complex color gradients inspired by artists like Rachel Whiteread and Franz Erhard Walther.
Moving Beyond the Viral Moment
The shift is part of a much bigger strategy for the label, which has officially dropped its full name to simply be called Naranjo. This rebrand is all about scaling up into new categories like eyewear, shoes, and accessories. He’s also realized that while being a celebrity favorite is great, it doesn’t always translate to long-term business growth. It was incredible that she chose me, but the sales impact was very short-lived, Naranjo admitted, noting that clients would ask for the exact dress Zendaya wore and then never return. To build something sustainable, he’s focusing on creating “strong classics” rather than trying to reinvent the wheel every single season.
💫 It was incredible that she chose me, but the sales impact was very short-lived,
Building Brand Codes Through Classics
This season saw a heavy emphasis on separates—skirts, pants, and tops designed to actually work with a real wardrobe. He even brought back his signature Liza top, a nod to Liza Minnelli, but gave it a glossy update featuring an anemone-shaped brooch. The craftsmanship is getting even more elevated too; his Madrid studio used silk taffeta, satin, and multicolored silk fringe sourced directly from Seville. Even the color palette reflects a balance between art and commerce. While he uses unexpected combinations learned during his time working for John Galliano, he’s leaning into black because that is what his clients are actually asking for.
The collection isn’t just serious high fashion, though; it has some major personality in the accessories department. We saw animal-print shoes and even anklets made from children’s necklaces. There were also bags handwoven by his mother-in-law, Angelita, adding a sweet, personal touch to the sophisticated vibe. By keeping production tight and controlling exactly where his pieces are sold, Naranjo is proving he’s playing the long game.
Are you here for the abstract marine vibes, or do you miss the viral red dress era?
❓ People Also Ask
Why is Ernesto Naranjo rebranding his fashion label?
Ernesto Naranjo is rebranding his label to simply Naranjo to facilitate scaling into new product categories like eyewear, shoes, and accessories. This strategic pivot aims to move the brand beyond the short-lived sales impact of viral celebrity moments, such as dressing Zendaya. By shifting focus from single red-carpet wins to building a sustainable business, the designer intends to create long-term growth through a more diverse and scalable brand identity.
How does the Ondine collection differ from previous designs?
The Ondine collection moves away from literal interpretations of marine life in favor of creating an abstract underwater world. The designer utilizes silver mesh, netting, and complex color gradients to achieve this artistic effect. These design choices were heavily inspired by the works of artists such as Rachel Whiteread and Franz Erhard Walther. This approach marks a significant shift toward more conceptual and elevated craftsmanship within the brand's latest seasonal offerings.
What materials are used in the new Naranjo collection?
The new collection utilizes premium materials including silk taffeta, satin, and multicolored silk fringe sourced directly from Seville. These high-quality fabrics are processed through his Madrid studio to ensure elevated craftsmanship. Additionally, the collection incorporates unique textures like silver mesh and netting to create its signature abstract aesthetic. These material choices reflect a balance between sophisticated high fashion and the practical demands of his client base.
How is Naranjo incorporating personal elements into his accessories?
Naranjo incorporates personal touches into his accessories by including handwoven bags created by his mother-in-law, Angelita. The collection also features unconventional items such as anklets made from children’s necklaces and various animal-print shoes. These unique pieces add a sense of personality and warmth to the otherwise sophisticated and serious high-fashion vibe of the brand. This blend of personal sentiment and high-end design helps define the brand's new identity.
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📰 Source: Vogue