✨ Let’s get into it ✨
⏱ 2 min read
💡 TLDR
Forget body positivity—the "heroin chic" aesthetic is officially back and it’s getting dark. From Charli XCX to runway models, everyone is rebranding looking unwell and smoking as the new peak of cool.
The way the “indie sleaze” revival is turning into something much darker is actually terrifying. We went from celebrating body positivity and wellness culture to seeing models on Christian Cowan and LaQuan Smith runways holding lit cigarettes like they’re basic accessories. Even Charli XCX defined the whole “brat” essence as including a pack of cigs and a Bic lighter, while Addison Rae was out here smoking two at once in her “Aquamarine” music video. This isn’t just an aesthetic; we are witnessing the shadow of heroin chic creeping back into our feeds.
The Return Of Performative Neglect
This isn’t just a new look; it’s a direct callback to the ’90s when being dangerously thin and cynical was the ultimate rebellion. Back then, Interview editor-in-chief Ingrid Sischy famously condemned the look following the death of photographer Davide Sorrenti, telling his mother, “This is heroin; this isn’t chic.” It turns out there has always been a dark link between nicotine and weight; Big Tobacco used to market cigarettes as appetite suppressants, reinforcing the idea that to be thin is to smoke. Fast forward through the Kate Moss stairwell era—where her spindly legs and cigarettes became the blueprint for glamour—and suddenly, everyone from Hailey Bieber to Kylie Jenner is posing with performative cigarettes again. Looking unwell is officially being rebranded as “cool.”
💫 What one person considers alarming is considered aspirational by someone else.
A Dangerous New Cycle
It’s especially heavy because we aren’t just dealing with props anymore; we have GLP-1 weight-loss medications making ultra-thinness more achievable than ever. What one person considers alarming is considered aspirational by someone else. While some might call it Old Hollywood glamour, the shift away from wellness toward a “the world is burning” nihilism feels way more sinister. We saw it in 2014 when Star magazine cruelly headlined Nicole Richie’s struggles as a “Tragic Relapse,” but today, that policing has moved into the comment sections of everyone from Jenna Ortega to every rising starlet. We are stuck in this loop where shrinking bodies and toxic imagery keep resurfacing no matter how hard we try to move on.
Do you think the return of the cigarette aesthetic is just a fashion trend, or is it something deeper?
❓ People Also Ask
What is the connection between heroin chic and the current indie sleaze revival?
The indie sleaze revival is evolving into a darker aesthetic that mirrors the heroin chic era of the 1990s. This shift is characterized by a move away from wellness culture toward a look that embraces performative neglect and cynicism. Pop culture figures like Charli XCX and Addison Rae have contributed to this trend by incorporating cigarettes into their visual branding. This resurgence rebrands looking unwell as a form of rebellion, signaling a return to the spindly, nicotine-focused glamour of previous decades.
Why is the return of the cigarette aesthetic considered controversial in modern fashion?
The return of the cigarette aesthetic is controversial because it links smoking with thinness and glamour, echoing dangerous historical marketing tactics. In the past, Big Tobacco promoted cigarettes as appetite suppressants to reinforce the idea that smoking leads to a thin physique. Today, seeing celebrities like Hailey Bieber or Kylie Jenner posing with cigarettes feels like a rebranding of toxic imagery. This trend is seen as a regression from body positivity toward a nihilistic aesthetic that celebrates looking unhealthy.
How are modern weight-loss tools impacting the resurgence of ultra-thin beauty standards?
Modern GLP-1 weight-loss medications are making the ultra-thin body type associated with heroin chic more achievable than ever before. While some observers view the trend of shrinking bodies as alarming, others see this level of thinness as an aspirational goal. This technological shift creates a dangerous new cycle where medical interventions and aesthetic trends converge. The combination of pharmaceutical tools and a cultural shift toward nihilism makes the current obsession with extreme thinness feel more sinister than previous eras.
What historical events defined the original heroin chic era?
The original heroin chic era was defined by a controversial aesthetic of extreme thinness and cynicism that peaked in the 1990s. A pivotal moment occurred when Interview editor-in-chief Ingrid Sischy condemned the look following the tragic death of photographer Davide Sorrenti. She famously argued that the look was not chic, but was actually the result of heroin use. This era was also epitomized by models like Kate Moss, whose specific look became the blueprint for this dangerous brand of glamour.
💬 What do you think? Let us know in the comments! 👇
📰 Source: Cosmopolitan